What is a vintage watch?

A watch made decades ago, usually at least 30 years old. A vintage dive watch typically dates from the 1950s to the 1970s, with a rotating bezel, luminous markers and a steel case. Collectors value original, unrestored parts.

Where to buy vintage watches?

From a specialist dealer who shows clear photos of the dial, hands, caseback and movement, says which parts are original, and shares the service history. If you want the vintage look with a warranty, a modern continuation such as the Aquamar Vintage is an alternative.

How do you wind a vintage watch?

For a hand-wound watch, turn the crown clockwise gently until you feel resistance, and never force it. An automatic winds as you wear it, but a few turns of the crown help start it after it has stopped. If the crown screws down, unscrew it first and screw it back afterwards.

Jul 21, 2025

Vintage Swiss Dive Watches: A Collector’s Guide to Heritage Timepieces

Collector's guide · 5 min read

A vintage Swiss dive watch is a diver made decades ago, usually in the 1950s to 1970s, with a rotating bezel, luminous markers and a robust steel case. Collectors look for original dials, hands and bezels, honest patina and a known service history. This guide explains what to check before you buy, the Nivada Grenchen divers of the 1960s, and the modern alternatives if you want the look with today's water resistance.

In short

Check the originals: dial, hands, bezel insert and crown should be period-correct and unrestored.
Do not swim with it untested: old gaskets fail, so have the water resistance tested first.
Nivada Grenchen divers: the Depthmaster (1965) and the Depthomatic, and today the Aquamar Vintage and Depthmaster.

In this guide

What collectors look for
What to check before buying a vintage diver
Nivada Grenchen divers of the 1960s
New old stock: original dials and movements
The vintage look with a new watch

What collectors look for

An original dialUntouched, never repainted or refinished. A refinished dial lowers both authenticity and value.

Matching lumeThe luminous material on the hands and markers should have aged to the same tone. Mismatched patina suggests replaced parts.

The bezel insertOriginal inserts fade with age. A bezel that turns cleanly and clicks into each position shows a well-kept watch.

A sharp caseCrisp lug edges and original brushing show a case that was not heavily polished.

Original new old stock Nivada Antarctic Glacier dial from the 1960s — An original 1960s Antarctic Glacier dial, found as new old stock.

What to check before buying a vintage diver

Ask for clear photos of the dial, hands, caseback and movement.
Check that the dial, hands and bezel are original, and ask what has been replaced.
Ask for the service history and when the movement was last serviced.
Have the water resistance tested before swimming: old gaskets and crowns rarely keep their original rating.
Buy from a specialist who describes the watch's condition and parts honestly.

Nivada Grenchen divers of the 1960s

Nivada Grenchen launched the Depthmaster in 1965, rated to 1,000 m. Its U.S. advertising called it “depth-tested to 3000 feet”, with a heavy-gauge steel case, a seepage-proof crown and a large rotating ring to show elapsed underwater time.

Vintage advertisement for the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster, depth-tested to 3000 feet, by Croton Watch Co. — A 1960s U.S. advertisement for the Depthmaster.

Nivada also made the Depthomatic, advertised in 1966 as the only watch with a built-in depth gauge, worked by water pressure around the crystal. The late 1960s produced a lesser-known diver of the Antarctic family, which inspired today's Aquamar. For more on these watches, read Swiss Dive Watches: What Makes a Dive Watch.

New old stock: original dials and movements

At the Cenic Watches workshop near Grenchen, Nivada Grenchen found 18 original Antarctic Glacier dials and 18 vintage ETA 2783 movements, kept as new old stock since the 1960s. They became the Antarctic Glacier Vintage, a 35 mm edition of 18 numbered pieces with an open caseback.

Vintage ETA 2783 automatic movement inside the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier Vintage — A new old stock ETA 2783, in the Antarctic Glacier Vintage.

A dial forgotten for decades in the same archives became the Aquamar Vintage, with a cold-toned dark blue and grey dial, in a modern 38 mm case.

The vintage look with a new watch

If you love vintage divers but want a sapphire crystal, fresh gaskets and a warranty, a modern continuation gives you the look without the uncertainty.